STOP GETTING DEEP CONDITIONING WRONG. LEARN THESE 5 DON'TS OF DEEP CONDITIONING.


If your deep conditioning sessions consist of a lot of trial and even more error, then you need these 5 don'ts of successful deep conditioning.

DON'T...

1. DON'T OVERDO IT

Don't deep condition overnight or for hours on end. The obvious exception to this rule is treatments like henna, that require hours to take to the hair.

But for your everyday run-of-the-mill deep conditioner, it should begin to work instantly, and reach maximum capacity at around the 20 or 30 minute mark. If your deep conditioner doesn't work after 30 minutes, it's time to ditch it for one that's more effective. Also, there is something called over-conditioning that can result in mushy, weak hair that has a more fragile keratin coiling. This is called hygral fatigue.

2. DON'T MULTI-TASK

Don't use your DC to co-wash or as a leave-in conditioner. Deep conditioners are specially formulated to be especially adept at what they do - providing intense conditioning to the hair. And while they may feel nice in the hair, and can in some cases make pretty sweet curl definers, using them to cowash or as leave-ins is generally a no-no. Deep conditioners tend to contain higher concentrations of cationic surfactants (their primary function is to stick to the hair), and will likely lead to even more buildup if used as a cowash or leave-in.

3. DON'T BLOW YOUR BUDGET

For the most part, deep conditioner base recipes tend to be the same:

  • water
  • fatty alcohol (ceteryl, stearyl, cetearyl)
  • gentle surfactant (behentrimonium chloride, methosulfate, etc.)
  • humectant (glycerin, propylene glycol, honey, sugar, aloe vera, etc.)
  • emollients (oils, butters)
  • hydrolyzed protein (optional)
The order in which these ingredients appear may differ, as will the concentration and types of ingredients. This does not mean all deep conditioners are the same - these variations in formulation can mean the difference between a holy grail product and a horror. What this does mean, is to be price savvy. Take some time and compare the ingredient lists from your favorite expensive deep conditioners with a few drugstore brands. Often times, you'll discover the cheaper brand will be just as good, if not better.

4. DON'T INVITE BACTERIA

Don't let your DCs sit in storage long-term. Whether it's a DIY mix of avocados, greek yogurt, and Hello Hydration, or you stir your two favorite conditioners together, it is never a good idea to keep mixes for longer than a few days.

Refrigeration may buy you a week but no longer -- unless it is a henna mix that you can freeze for months. The general idea here is that all store-bought conditioners are formulated with a certain concentration of antimicrobials and preservatives that keep them from molding on the shelves. Home DIY mixes have no preservatives, unless you just happen to keep food grade preservatives on hand (essential oils only last so long). To keep the mold away from your mane, only mix enough deep conditioner for a single use every time, and use clean kitchen utensils to mix and stir.

5. DON'T BE FOOLED

Don't be fooled by marketing gimmicks and pixie dust. As you may know, only the first 5 ingredients after water (with a few exceptions) have the most impact on your hair.

Given point #3 about most deep conditioner bases being similar, spending tons of cash may not be the wisest thing. Add to that, not falling for marketing gimmicks and pixie dust. There are tons of products that will showcase exotic ingredients and extracts emblazoned across the label, but when you turn that label over, said ingredient is 32nd on the list right before the preservatives. Unless the miracle ingredient you're looking for is in the top 6 (top 10 to stretch) ingredients, you're setting yourself up to become a victim of a marketing ploy. If it is an oil or butter you're after (like coconut, jojoba, olive, macadamia, or sweet almond), you might be better off buying a cheapie conditioner and adding said oil in pure form yourself.

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by Christina Patrice via Naturally Curly

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